Winter Access Over 8 Miles of Unplowed Road

[jam session]

I have seen Grands lifted to run 35s on the trail but I think you lose hiway ride quality big time when you do that. A reasonable lift such as described in this article http://www.rocky-road.com/wjtrailblazer.html will still only allow 31/32in tires. So I wouldn't recommend modding the Grand for this purpose. Since you have time I'd shop around for a 2007+ rubi 4dr (if you value the extra space) that someone has already lifted and put larger tires on. These can be a bargain cause the dealers won't add any value for the lift. BTW another reason for choosing the Rubicon is that it comes stock with Dana 44 axles which are much better for the bigger tires. I'd also recommend staying at 35in tires. The wranglers can handle more with mods, but the amount of mods required to stay reliable get more expensive fast. One of the guys I wheel with says that the extra 1in of ground clearance you get from 35 to 37 in tires is the most expensive inch you'll ever buy . You'd be amazed at what a rubicon on aired down 35's can do in the snow while still being reasonably comfortable on the hiway.

[Nobody]

One of the guys I wheel with says that the extra 1in of ground clearance you get from 35 to 37 in tires is the most expensive inch you'll ever buy .

Unfortunately, Gbvol52 may need that extra inch and 38's.

[jam session]

Ok since he hasn't given us a budget how about this one on 37s? I believe the Toyos are 13.5 wide for a little more floatation and good in the snow and it also has a winch

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale ... 9463&Log=0

[gbvol54]

Now that looks like the ticket! Just a soon as I win the lottery......

No, I'm retiring, but I'm not Bill Gates. Sorry, but around $20K is my upper limit and at that price I'd probably just go with a 1 ton 4X4 and a plow. But you guys are coming through with lots of good information and ideas. Please keep it up.

[jam session]

So keep shopping! I figured this one had too much $ and frankly was shocked at the price. I bought my 2009 2dr rubi, 2 years ago for 26K with a 3.5in lift, 35s and a winch (and other mods that don't matter for your application, rock rails, gas cans etc). If you care about on road performance in addition to making the 8 mile snow run, still think the new Wranglers are the best choice. Similar vehicle to mine would probably be in your price range today. Of course as I learned on another forum it is fun to spend other peoples money

[Nobody]

Lets do this... let's build from the ground up.

Tires and wheels - $2,000
35's being the absolute minimum. 38-39's would be better for the worst conditions. Probably can find a good set of used tires and wheels for $1,000

Axles - $0 - $500
Stock axles using an 8" or larger ring gear should be fine for what you need. Smaller axles should be upgraded.

Axle Gears and lockers - $3,000
I do that work myself, so that's just a wild ballpark guess for some gears and ARB's installed.

Suspension lift - $1,500
Most of us do a combination of lift and fender cutting. Requirments vary for specific vehicles.

Transmission or Transfercase - $500 - $3,000
Final gear ratio should be no less than 75:1. In my case I have an NP435(granny low), Dana 20, and 4.56 axles gears. So that's 6.69x2.46x4.56 = 75. With my 36's, it works. There are times I would like an even lower final ratio. You can buy aftermarket 4:1 transfercases and doublers for most popular vehicles.

Engine - $0
In most cases the stock engine should be sufficient. Especially if you are geared appropriately.

So that gets you to 10K and you still need a vehicle! I suspect you can find some decently built vehicles that meet the above specs for 10K..and you won't have to turn a wrench!

If you have any questions about rigs you see for sale, let us know. There's a lot of garbage for sale out there.

[Nobody]

Just did a quick craigslist search for "ARB" and saw these.

2005 Jeep Rubicon - $16,500 (Spokane)
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3346234511.html



2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee - 37" MTR's (Stuck ) - $9,500
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/3342092148.html

[gbvol54]

Guys,

It'll likely be a few more months before I'll be ready to pull the trigger. I have promised the wife that I'd cull down the herd a bit before I buy another rig. I've got a Datsun Z/Chevy 350/Muncie 4-speed project I have to finish (body and paint mostly) along with a modified Toyota MR-2 Turbo, both that need to go (neither will make it over the forest service road, at least not very often). My retirement date is September of next year so I've got a little time to shop around and run possibilities by you boys.

Headed over to the property next week for an extended stay. Apparently they expect 5 to 10 inches tonight. Good thing I put the snow tires on the Silverado. It does pretty well until it starts plowing snow with the bumper (around a 12"). After that it gets tough. May be operator error.

If there is really snow do you guys want pics?

[Nobody]

I'd love to see some pics. Is your place off the grid?

[jam session]

Snow pics always welcome this time of year What kind of snow tires do you have on the Silverado? Have you considered building it? You need a lift, bigger tires and lockers. For snow on a forest road, full size trucks are a pretty good option. I had an F250 on 12.5x33 siped ATs for many years that did great in the snow. It was a little bit hard to control cause the limited slip rear axle would slide downhill if it was slick, but the front would pull me through anything less than 18in or so. Got stuck on my steep driveway a few years ago, but we had 23 in and I drove out after a little work with the HiLift jack and shovel. If you drive your road regularly you may not need to float on top, just plow through to pack it down. Limit is how much snow you would have in a single storm or between driving it to pack the track. Hope this helps, I love your problem!

[Nobody]

I love your problem!

It's a high quality problem

[EBSTEVE]

Full size is always an option but they are alot more work to dig out and it can be challenging to turn them around.

[gbvol54]

Jam,

I've got Blizzaks on the Silverado. Highly rated snow tires, but that rating was related to pavement driving, not deep snow on Forest Service roads, but they'll get me there. Also have chains, and used them last Christmas.

Nobody,

Yep, off grid, and likely to remain so through my life time. Just way too far to justify a power line. The previous owners set up a small, but quality, solar energy system, and I'll add a diesel generator for additional winter use while I build up the solar.

And to both, Yes the winter access is a problem that I have to solve, but it's good to hear from guys that appreciate the challange. Most of the people I work with look at me like I've lost my mind. Heck, I'm retiring from my job, not my life. And what's life without a few challanges and adventures?

[gbvol54]

EbSteve,

I agree about the full size being tough to dig out. Been there, done that. Like to avoid doing that again. I'm sure that there are tons of stuff I could do to my Chevy to make it better in the snow, but I use the heck out of it as a daily driver, camping, boat towing, garbage hauling, rock fetching, etc. rig, and it's does those jobs fine as is. Besides this is a chance to justify another vehicle (and a type I've never really had before).

Kinda like a kid in candy store....

[Nobody]

Seattle to off the grid is quite the change! Keep us posted.

Are you familiar with Dick Proenneke?

[gbvol54]

Just a hillbilly from Tennessee returning to my roots, though a bit further west.

And no I haven't had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Proenneke.

[gbvol54]

Time for some education for this hillbilly if you will;

I'm familiar with Limited Slip and welded differentials from my quasi hot rods. Lockers, Spools and selectable lockers, not so much. I assume a locker is what the older 4X4s had where you got out of the cab and physically turned the hub to engage the 4 wheel drive, and that 'locked' that axle (both wheels acted together). I again assume a 'selectable locker' is one that can be controlled from the cab, but functions like a locked diff once engaged). Not sure at all about where a 'spool' fits in.....

[Nobody]

Just a hillbilly from Tennessee returning to my roots, though a bit further west.

And no I haven't had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Proenneke.

Dick Proenneke is a guy that retired and move to Alaska, WAY off the grid. Pretty fascinating guy. If you're a reader, check out One Man's Wilderness: An Alaskan Odyssey or watch Alone in the Wilderness. They run the TV shows on on PBS from time to time.

[Nobody]

Time for some education for this hillbilly if you will;

I'm familiar with Limited Slip and welded differentials from my quasi hot rods. Lockers, Spools and selectable lockers, not so much. I assume a locker is what the older 4X4s had where you got out of the cab and physically turned the hub to engage the 4 wheel drive, and that 'locked' that axle (both wheels acted together). I again assume a 'selectable locker' is one that can be controlled from the cab, but functions like a locked diff once engaged). Not sure at all about where a 'spool' fits in.....

Selectable lockers can be switched from "Open Differential to a Spool" from a switch in the cab. A spool locks both axles together, permanently. The same effect as welding up the spider gears. I used to run a welded differential. They really eat up the tires. Selectable lockers WILL easily pay for themselves in tire savings.

ARB Air Lockers are operated by compressed air. Very popular, reliable and hold up to large tires very well. You can use your on-board air to operate them, or buy the ARB electric pump.

Electric Locker. As you might guess, these are operated by an electric solenoid. Several of the auto manufactuers offer these as an option on new vechicles. Eaton ELocker is also available to the aftermarket. I know the older models weren't recommended with very large tires....that may have changed now.

The OX Locker is a cable actuated locker.

Automatic Lockers lock the axles together when power is applied to the differential, and allow one tire to "ratchet" when cornering, so long as you are off the throttle.

The Lock Right or Detroit Gearless lockers replace the spider gears. These are often referred to as "lunchbox lockers". They are easy to install, and don't require resetting the gears. These are best used in front end applications. You can also get fullsize automatic lockers such as the Detroit Locker. These replace the whole differential carrier assembly and would require the gears to be setup.

The locking hubs just enguage the hub with the axle shaft so power can be delivered to that tire. Some vehicles have automatic hubs(generally unreliable). Other vehicles, such as most of the modern jeeps, don't have locking hubs. The axles are enguaged full time. The 4wd is selected at the transfercase only.

[jam session]

Here's a link to a pretty good article on lockers to add to the previous reply.
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-tech/dyna ... ockers-101
I really like the elockers in my rubicon. It is really nice to be able to lock when you need it, but run open on the street. I use them a lot in difficult snow!