SNOWTREK.org

That doesn't look bad at all! Nice to see continued progress.

I'm looking at tires lately, since I will be building this thing mainly to accommodate large tires, axles and low gearing. I don't want a jacked up Florida mud truck look either, so I am going to be cutting metal... lots of it.

Does anyone have an opinion about the military take offs? The price point is about right. If i don't go military then I would probably have to be looking at used and something smaller sized.

46 /20R Goodyears :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-MILITARY-SURP ... xyOypSVxeK

I believe they are radials, they're band new and seem like a decent brand name.

I know they wouldn't be as good as say Iroks or some sticky compound, but I will be road driving this jeep & wearing away expensive tires.

I think a thorough sipe and mild groove job on something like this would go along way.

What do the experts think?

Those military tires are super heavy and sidewalls super stiff. Need dual beadlocks and no air whatsoever at a minimum with heavy grooving and siping.

That's what I figured really stiff. I have a pretty heavy drive train and axles... Maybe if I drive them around with 5 psi in the neighborhood for a week they will soften up.

I'm thinking they may not "bag out" when aired down as much but the shear size will still be benefitial.

And they are radials so perhaps they will loosen up.

What type of double bead locks would you suggest?. I'm not an expert in the beadlock realm just yet.

Just found goodyears military tire site and if my eyes don't decieve me those tires are in excess of 200 pounds each. They are designed for 5 ton trucks. With no air in them i think you'd barely notice it. Caribou 6x6 in Quesnel bc can get those too and might save you a ton in shipping to retrieve those ones.

http://www.goodyear.com/cfmx/web/gov/pd ... ochure.pdf

I agree that they would be entirely too stiff, and they will never break in. I suspect whatever gains you get from the sheer size of the tire will be lost to the lack of traction. Personally, I'd try to stick with a load range C radial with 2 ply sidewall, even if it means a slightly smaller tire size.

Did some work on the frame. Now I will be able to get the front axle positioned and do the body mounts and engine mounts/ positioning next!
Frenched the front leafs for added clearence and less hangups!

Just curious, why would take a vehicle down to the frame build level and leaf spring it rather than coil spring?

for steering simplicity and front end stability are my reasons.
There's plenty of very capable leaf 4x4s out there!

Maybe one day I will 3 or 4 link the front, but I want to put miles on this baby. I think the leafs will really have much better road manners for my circumstance.
And rod ends are $$.

there is something minimalistic and fine in it

Haven't given up yet..

Here's some more pictures of what I'm doing since the last update
Pushing to get it going by summer 2017

40" procomp tires
~2000 dodge caravan seats
front leafs/ axles bolted up
trail gear creeper joints are on the shelf for the 4 link rear
motor is 95% re assembled

Coming together very nicely. Can't wait to see the end result. Great work.

Nobody wrote:Coming together very nicely. Can't wait to see the end result. Great work.

Will have to plan a trip to WA when its road worthy

Getting some snow recently

~25 cm

This was last weekend in my back yard. It's snowing hard today but unfortunately we got a bunch of wind this week so it's doubtful if we can get out wheeling. Between the snowmobiles and the drifts I think we're already done for the season until spring. We went from nothing to a whole bunch in one fell swoop!

small update.
very small.
Tacked the caps on the motor mount brackets





Also decided I'm going with the NWF Eco Box for a underdrive infront of my NP205 (32 spine throughout !)

1/2 way through re building the front D60 - did the u Joints. just waiting on a sale to order some gear sets.

Kicking around ~4.10 -5.13's .... any input from you guys who use their rigs? - im just a jack stand wheeler heh

Looking great! For gears, I feel pretty strongly about gearing to the desired cruising rpm. I prefer Dana/spicer. I've picked up used gear sets the last two times. I prefer used OEM over some of the questionable brands out there these days.

Nobody wrote:Looking great! For gears, I feel pretty strongly about gearing to the desired cruising rpm. I prefer Dana/spicer. I've picked up used gear sets the last two times. I prefer used OEM over some of the questionable brands out there these days.

Thanks!
I'm sure I will regret going with the G2 brand gears, but its a balance between time before I can drive this thing vs budget.
Trying to make high quality parts where I can and buy slightly less expensive parts. We'll see. Just want to drive the thing before I sell or kids come.

I used the gear calculator again and came up with at ~2200 rpm I can do 60 mph, with 4.56 gears

might be the best choice.

Trying hard to get to a roller with driveline installed by summer.

small update.

body mounts in order, now i need to figure out where to locate it.

I was going for that retro '68 vibe styling

Holy shoot it’s been a while.

I forgot about this site!

Almost done, just painting and putting it back together.
Hopefully wheeling this winter!