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Mountaineers: Crevasse Rescue Using a Z-Pulley System (3-Person Team)
10:28 min | 83,585views

Demonstration of a climber extrication from a crevasse using a 3:1 z-pulley system (3-person rope team). Shot by Issues/clarifications: -"What about 6:1, 9:1 + 2-person rope teams? What if the middle person falls in". Good topics, out of scope for this particular video. -"End climbers lack extra coils". Reason: Assumption here is that two rope teams climb together and second rope team would aid in the rescue. Without a second team and as a general best practice, however, end climbers should make extra rope available on their ends. -"Anchors aren't equalized". More: Yes the second anchor is only serving as a backup if the first anchor fails. Putting in the initial quick anchor here allows weight to be taken off the self-arresting climber (assumption here is that a guarded, vertically placed axe is more secure than a single person in self arrest). Because the second anchor here is a solid deadman and the first is just a quick anchor (vertical ice axe) ideally you'd want to tie a load releasing hitch for the first anchor, then release load onto the second, more solid deadman anchor. Or the third person should setup an equalized system while the second person holds the fall via self-arrest. Both are more time consuming, but more secure (trade-offs need to be made based on the situation). -"There are some loading issues". Because of the lack of anchor equalization, tri or x-loading is unlikely (see 7:47 for how loading plays out). That said the third person setting up an equalized system could allow one to avoid this and clip directly into a power point on the anchors. -"Carabiner on carabiner is bad". Outstanding topic - have yet to hear a convincing argument on why metal on metal is bad here. -"Climbers should haul with waist/body vs. hands". Agree this is more efficient if you can't get enough pull/friction using hands. -"Wire gates vs. lockers - why?" I think the idea here is that lockers can freeze in certain conditions. A locker when locked is going to be more secure than single wire gate biner, however. -"This takes place in a parking lot - I think roping up in this setting is overkill". Agree to disagree. -What else? Keep the comments coming.
Camp Muir (Mount Rainier) September 23-24, 2012 -
1:12:08 min | 7,971views

First trip to Camp Muir on Mount Rainier. I started reviewing the video and decided it plays just fine in full. I listed some key points below. I was just going to this video unlisted for friends and family, but decided to make it public. Maybe someone that can't physically make the trek might enjoy it. 0:00:00 - Leaving Paradise 0:11:48 - Base of Muir Snowfield 0:16:07 - Weather is changing while on our break at the base of the Muir Snowfield 0:36:20 - Approaching Camp Muir. Very Windy! 0:37:52 - Arrival at Camp Muir 0:41:13 - Evening in the Camp Muir public shelter 0:47:00 - Beautiful morning at Camp Muir 0:55:40 - Leaving Camp Muir 1:00:51 - Unexpect Crevasse on the Muir Snowfield 1:08:28 - Steve glissading down the Muir Snowfield
Unexpected Crevasse on Muir Snowfield September 24, 2012 -
05:57 min | 3,471views

After spending the night at Camp Muir on Mount Rainier (elevation 10,100'), Steve and I were the first ones heading down. Being late September, the muir snowfield was already in rough condition. There were brutal winds the previous day and night which obscured the boot tracks. The path we chose took us to this unexpected crevasse. While this one step doesn't seem like a big deal, it was a very steep section of mountain and we are carrying heavy packs. We also did not have any crevasse rescue gear or training, nor did we know what was coming up below. After crossing the crevasse we saw the the snowfield conditions were getting much worse, so we traversed over to the boot trail we came up the previous day. Not really sure if this was a stupid move without proper gear. I felt it was wiser than traversing that section of untraveled snowfield, where I could see several smaller crevasses. Recorded with a GoPro Hero2 mounted on my homemade trekking pole monopod.
How to ice-axe self arrest
06:02 min | 261,568views

A practical guide to ice-axe arresting taken from the British Mountaineering Council's 'Winter Essentials' DVD with their kind permission. Full DVD available here: For more videos like this, visit
Final ascent to Mt Rainier Summit.MP4
04:30 min | 3,321views

Final ascent to Mt Rainier Summit. Greg, Alan, Jared and our guide Jason Thompson.